Walk into any decorating shop in the UK and the choice can feel endless: emulsion, eggshell, satinwood, masonry paint, breathable paint. Each type is made for a different surface and a different job, and using the wrong one is a common reason for peeling, patchy finishes and repainting sooner than you should have to.
This guide explains the main types of paint used in British homes, what each one is best for, and what to check before you buy.
Water-based or oil-based?
Paint is usually either water-based or solvent-based (often called oil-based). Most paint sold for homes today is water-based, partly because rules limiting volatile organic compounds (VOCs) have pushed manufacturers in that direction.
- Water-based: dries faster, has less smell, and brushes can be cleaned with water. Modern water-based woodwork paints are now very hard-wearing.
- Solvent-based: slower to dry with a stronger smell, and brushes need white spirit. Some people still prefer it for a smooth, traditional finish on woodwork, but white shades can yellow over time.
Emulsion: the standard paint for walls and ceilings
Emulsion is the everyday paint for interior walls and ceilings. It is water-based, dries quickly and comes in a huge range of colours. The main difference between emulsions is the finish.
| Finish | What it looks like | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Matt | Flat, no shine. Hides uneven walls well, but marks more easily. | Ceilings, bedrooms, living rooms |
| Soft sheen | A slight sheen. Easier to wipe clean than matt. | Hallways, children’s rooms, living areas |
| Silk | Noticeable sheen. Wipeable, but shows up flaws in the wall. | Well-prepared walls in busy rooms |
| Kitchen and bathroom | Usually a soft sheen or silk, made to resist moisture and mould. | Kitchens, bathrooms, utility rooms |
You will also see “contract” or “trade” matt. It is a very flat, economical paint often used on large areas and ceilings, though it is less durable than a good vinyl matt.
A note on new plaster
Fresh plaster is very absorbent. The usual approach is a “mist coat”: a first coat of matt emulsion thinned with water, following the manufacturer’s instructions. This seals the surface so the following coats stick properly and look even. Let the plaster dry fully first.
Paint for woodwork and metal
Skirting boards, doors, window frames and radiators need a tougher paint than walls because they get knocked, scuffed and cleaned more often.
- Eggshell: a low sheen with a soft, modern look.
- Satinwood: a mid sheen that is a popular all-round choice for trim and doors.
- Gloss: a high-shine, hard-wearing finish. It looks sharp on well-prepared wood, but also highlights dents and brush marks.
- Primer and undercoat: bare wood and metal usually need a suitable primer, and many systems then use an undercoat before the top coat. Some modern paints combine these steps, so check the tin.
- Radiator paint: made to cope with heat without yellowing.
Masonry paint for exterior walls
Masonry paint is made for outside walls such as render, brick, concrete and pebbledash. It is formulated to cope with rain, frost and sunlight, and to stay flexible as walls expand and contract. It comes in smooth and textured versions, and the textured type can help disguise small cracks.
Preparation matters more outside than almost anywhere else. Clean off algae and dirt, repair cracks, let the wall dry fully, and choose a dry spell with mild temperatures. Check the temperature range on the tin.
Breathable paint for older homes
Many older British properties have solid walls built without a modern damp-proof course. These walls are designed to let moisture escape through the surface. Sealing them with a standard vinyl or plastic-based paint can trap moisture and lead to blistering, peeling and damp problems.
For period homes, breathable options such as limewash, mineral or silicate paints, and clay paints are commonly used. If your home is listed or in a conservation area, ask your local authority or a conservation specialist what is appropriate before you start.
Other paints you may come across
- Anti-condensation and anti-mould paints: useful in damp-prone rooms, but they do not fix the cause. Ventilation still matters.
- Floor paint: hard-wearing paint for concrete or timber floors, such as garages and workshops.
- Chalk-style paint: a matt, easy-to-use paint popular for furniture.
- Fence and shed paint and wood treatments: water-based coatings that colour and protect outdoor timber. If you are putting up or replacing fencing, see our Fencing & Garden Work page.
How much paint do you need?
As a rough guide, one litre of emulsion usually covers about 10 to 14 square metres per coat, though it varies by paint and by how absorbent the surface is. Most walls need two coats. The coverage is printed on the tin, so measure your walls, work out the area, and allow a little extra rather than running short halfway through a wall, where a change of batch can show.
Safety: older paint and textured ceilings
Be careful in older homes. Houses built before the 1960s may have old lead-based paint, so do not dry sand it. Textured coatings such as Artex in homes built before 2000 can contain asbestos. If you are unsure, get it tested by a professional before you sand, scrape or drill.
Quick checklist before you buy
- What is the surface: plaster, wood, metal, masonry or something else?
- Is it inside or outside, and is the room damp-prone?
- How old is the building, and does the wall need to breathe?
- Which finish suits the room: matt to hide flaws, or a wipeable sheen for busy areas?
- Does it need a primer, mist coat or undercoat first?
If paint is part of a wider renovation or building project, have a look at our Renovations service, or get in touch and tell us about your plans.